Blue calico is a traditional Chinese fabric with a history of over 1,300 years. It is created using a block printing technique with resist dyeing.
The Blue Calico-Making Craft originates from Qin and Han dynasties (221 BC–AD 220) and thrived in the Tang and Song dynasties (618–1279). [Photo/WeChat account: wenlvdongying]
In Guangrao district, Dongying, East China's Shandong province, the blue calico was mainly produced for household use, passed down through master-apprentice and familial traditions. The items were typically household goods such as bed linens, quilts, and door curtains.
Song Xinliang, living at the Le'an sub-district in Guangrao county, is the fourth inheritor of the Blue Calico-Making Craft.
According to Song, making a blue calico is a complicated process.
To make blue calico, high-quality, tightly woven cotton is heated in an alkaline solution above 50°C to remove sizing, then washed and dried for later use. [Photo/WeChat account: wenlvdongying]
The dye for blue calico come from the root of the flowering isatis plant, which is cleaned, soaked, and then fermented with lime and rice wine before yielding its deep blue color. [Photo/WeChat account: wenlvdongying]
To create the floral pattern for blue calico, a design plate is carved from cardboard, with the pattern drawn on kraft paper and then etched with a cutting knife. [Photo/WeChat account: wenlvdongying]
Apply the resist paste evenly and quickly to avoid damaging the pattern. Use precise strokes and clean the plate immediately after use. Dry the fabric in the shade to prevent cracking. [Photo/WeChat account: wenlvdongying]
Wet the fabric before dyeing for even color. After 20 minutes, lift the fabric to oxidize for 30 minutes. Repeat the dyeing process as needed, adjusting time based on fabric and weather. [Photo/WeChat account: wenlvdongying]
After dyeing, the fabric is soaked in diluted acetic acid for 30-60 minutes to neutralize the alkali. It is then stretched on a frame, and excess paste is scraped off using a rounded scraper or kitchen knife at a 45° angle. [Photo/WeChat account: wenlvdongying]
Rinse the fabric to remove resist paste and excess dye, washing two to three times to clean any residue. Then, hang it to dry using a bamboo pole on a high rack. [Photo/WeChat account: wenlvdongying]
Spanning a thousand years, the tradition of blue calico has evolved through the collective efforts of many. This craft continues to shine with a timeless charm that resonates in the modern world.
