Alley to Confucius Mansion [Photo by Bruce Connolly/chinadaily.com.cn]

I was reaching the city moat and approaching a passage through the Ming walls. It was a moment to stand there, to watch the everyday passing scene. Pedicabs and horse-drawn tourist carts meandered slowly past. Willows lined the walkway between the walls and moat as I headed westwards to a square in front of the South Gate. It once provided secure passage into what had been a compact, walled city. While photographing I was also looking at people. Older generations sat on stone benches watching, as they probably do every day, while the tourists were posing for selfies or looking in awe at the remaining Ming structures. Some visitors would possibly be thinking back to how this area had appeared or resembled over past centuries. I could picture the traders of days gone by, arriving by horse or on foot, the markets and street stalls, the steam from countless food stalls, the bustling noisy scenes during festivals. This area must have amazing stories to tell if only stones could talk. History indeed is written in stone. It was however crowded during my visit with schoolchildren, many dressed Confucian-style for a visit to the vast temple compound within its walls is currently an important element in educating about China's cultural legacy.

Crossing the moat, passing through the arch I entered a large enclosed courtyard, surrounded by high walls. This was a strongly defensive double gate structure typical of Ming city design. Beyond that second arch lay the Confucius Temple south entrance which I would later visit. Instead I walked slowly now inside the city walls, passing souvenir kiosks, before reaching Queli Street. Although touristy, catering for the annual flow of visitors mostly heading toward the mansion, it had retained some of the fascination of my earlier China travels. Older buildings, gateways, sizzling food stalls were there within a traffic-free environment. I was falling in love with Qufu, its history, its architectural style and particularly the friendliness of the people. I felt indeed very welcome in this community where many residents can actually trace their pedigree back to Confucius.

I will look more at this in a subsequent feature on Qufu and its relationship with Confucius.